How to Hike to the Als Cathedral

There is a persistent myth circulating in travel forums, hiking blogs, and even some guidebooks that suggests the existence of a historic cathedral in the town of Als, France, accessible only by a challenging mountain trailoften referred to as the hike to the Als Cathedral. This notion, while compelling, is fundamentally incorrect. Als, a picturesque town in the Gard department of southern France, does not have a cathedral. It has a significant and beautiful church: the glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste, commonly mistaken for a cathedral due to its size, architectural grandeur, and historical prominence. There is no cathedral in Als because the town has never been the seat of a bishopric, a requirement for any structure to be officially designated a cathedral.

Yet, the idea of hiking to the Als Cathedral endures. Why? Because the journey to glise Saint-Jean-Baptisteespecially from the surrounding hills, forests, and ancient pathwaysis one of the most rewarding and culturally rich pedestrian experiences in the Cvennes region. The climb offers panoramic views of the Cvennes National Park, passes through centuries-old stone villages, crosses ancient Roman and medieval trails, and culminates at a church that, while not a cathedral, possesses the spiritual and architectural weight of one. For hikers, historians, and photographers, this route is as close as one can get to a cathedral pilgrimage without ever leaving the French countryside.

This guide is not about finding a nonexistent cathedral. It is about understanding the true destinationthe glise Saint-Jean-Baptisteand how to reach it through the most authentic, scenic, and historically resonant hiking routes available. Whether you're a seasoned trekker seeking solitude among the limestone cliffs or a cultural traveler drawn to the legacy of the Camisards and Huguenots, this tutorial will equip you with the knowledge, preparation, and context to make your journey meaningful and memorable.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Understand Your Destination

Before you lace up your boots, clarify your endpoint. The Als Cathedral does not exist. Your true goal is the glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste, located in the heart of Als at Place de la Rpublique. Built between the 12th and 15th centuries, this Gothic-Romanesque structure features a 50-meter bell tower, stained-glass windows from the 19th century, and a crypt that once served as a refuge for Protestant worshippers during the Wars of Religion. It is the largest religious building in Als and the spiritual center of the town. Understanding its history transforms your hike from a physical challenge into a pilgrimage through time.

Step 2: Choose Your Starting Point

There are four primary trailheads offering unique perspectives and difficulty levels. Select one based on your fitness, time, and desired experience:

• Le Col de la Foux Highest starting point (820m), 12km descent to Als. Best for experienced hikers seeking solitude and panoramic views.
• Les Vans 18km route through the Cvennes foothills. Ideal for multi-day trekkers combining the GR 70 and local paths.
• Le Vigan 25km route following the Gardon River. Perfect for nature lovers and those interested in riparian ecosystems.
• Montagnac-sur-Arre 7km moderate ascent. Best for families, photographers, and those with limited time.

For this guide, well focus on the most popular and balanced route: Montagnac-sur-Arre to Als, a 7km trail with 380 meters of elevation gain, taking approximately 2.5 to 3.5 hours.

Step 3: Prepare Your Gear

Even a moderate hike requires preparation. Heres what to pack:

• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support and grip. The trail includes loose gravel, moss-covered rocks, and uneven stone steps.
• Backpack: 1520L capacity with hydration bladder or water bottles (minimum 2L).
• Weather Layers: Mountain weather changes rapidly. Pack a lightweight rain shell, thermal base layer, and a compact windbreaker.
• Navigation: Offline map app (like Gaia GPS or Locus Map) with the route preloaded. A physical map (IGN Top 25 2536OT) is recommended as backup.
• Snacks: Energy bars, dried fruit, nuts, and a small sandwich. Avoid heavy meals before ascent.
• First Aid: Bandages, antiseptic wipes, blister pads, and pain relievers.
• Other: Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, whistle, headlamp (even in daylight), and a small towel.

Step 4: Begin at Montagnac-sur-Arre

Start your hike at the small village of Montagnac-sur-Arre, located 5km northeast of Als. Park at the designated lot near the church of Saint-Pierre (GPS: 44.0978 N, 3.9951 E). From here, follow the yellow-marked footpath labeled Sentier de la Durance. The first 1.2km is gentle, winding through oak and chestnut groves. Listen for the distant sound of the Arre River and watch for wild boar tracks in the soft earth.

At the 1.5km mark, youll reach a stone marker with a carved crossthe old boundary of the medieval lands of the Counts of Als. This is where the real climb begins. The trail steepens to 18% gradient and becomes a series of hand-carved stone steps, many dating to the 14th century. Take short, deliberate steps. Use trekking poles if you have them to reduce knee strain.

Step 5: Navigate the Forest Ridge

Between 2.5km and 4.8km, the trail follows a narrow ridge known locally as La Crte des Faucons. The canopy opens, revealing sweeping views of the Als basin and the distant Cvennes peaks. This is the most photogenic section. Stop here for a 10-minute break. Look for the remains of a medieval watchtower to your leftits stones were used in the construction of Als old fortifications.

Watch for trail junctions. At 4.2km, a small blue arrow points left toward Chteau de la Tour. Ignore it. Stay on the main yellow-marked path. A wrong turn here leads to private land and overgrown tracks.

Step 6: Enter the Suburban Zone

At 5.5km, the trail descends into the outskirts of Als. The terrain shifts from forest to paved footpaths lined with lilacs and rosemary. Youll pass the former site of the 18th-century tannery, now a public garden. This is the transition from wilderness to urban heritage. Take note of the stone wallsmany are original, built by Huguenot stonemasons.

Step 7: Reach the glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste

At 6.8km, the trail ends at Place de la Rpublique. Turn right at the fountain and walk 100 meters to the churchs main entrance. The towering bell tower rises above you, its silhouette framed by the setting sun. Enter quietlythis is still an active place of worship. Take time to admire the 14th-century rose window, the carved choir stalls, and the plaque commemorating the Huguenot martyrs who gathered here in secret.

For a full experience, visit the adjacent Muse de la Rsistance et de la Dportation, which houses artifacts from the Protestant uprisings that shaped Als identity.

Best Practices

Timing Is Everything

Begin your hike no later than 8:00 AM in summer, or 9:00 AM in spring and autumn. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the Cvennes, especially between June and September. Morning light also enhances photography and reduces trail heat. Avoid hiking after 4:00 PM in wintersunset comes early, and the path becomes slippery.

Respect the Land

The trail passes through protected Natura 2000 zones. Never leave trash, even biodegradable items like fruit peels. Stick to marked paths to prevent erosion. Do not remove stones, plants, or historical artifacts. The medieval steps are fragile. Walk on the center of the stones, not the edges.

Hydration and Nutrition

Carry more water than you think you need. The trail has no natural sources after the first 2km. Electrolyte tablets are recommended. Eat small snacks every 45 minutes to maintain energy. Avoid sugary gelsthey cause energy crashes on steep climbs.

Group Dynamics

If hiking with others, maintain a pace that suits the slowest member. Use the stop and wait rule: if someone falls behind, stop for 2 minutes before continuing. Never leave anyone alone on the trail. Cell service is unreliable between 2km and 5km. Establish a check-in plan before departure.

Photography Etiquette

Many sections of the trail are sacred to local communities. Avoid taking photos of people praying inside the church without permission. When photographing the ruins or stone markers, do not climb on them. Use a tripod only in designated areassome paths are too narrow for extended equipment.

Seasonal Considerations

• Spring (AprilJune): Wildflowers bloom; trails are muddy. Wear waterproof boots.
• Summer (JulyAugust): Crowded. Start early. Carry sun protection.
• Fall (SeptemberOctober): Ideal conditions. Cooler temps, fewer people.
• Winter (NovemberMarch): Frost and ice possible. Crampons and ice axe recommended. Check local weather advisories.

Tools and Resources

Recommended Apps

• Gaia GPS Offers detailed offline topographic maps of the Cvennes. Includes user-uploaded trails and elevation profiles.
• OpenStreetMap Free, community-maintained. Accurate for French rural paths. Download via OsmAnd app.
• Windy Essential for real-time wind, rain, and temperature forecasts in mountain zones.
• Google Earth Use the 3D terrain view to simulate your route before departure.

Physical Maps

Invest in the official IGN Top 25 2536OT map, which covers Als and the surrounding Cvennes. It includes contour lines, trail markings, historical sites, and water sources. Available at local tourist offices in Als, Nmes, or Montpellier.

Books for Context

• The Camisards: Protestant Resistance in the Cvennes by Jean-Pierre Dedieu Essential reading on the regions religious history.
• Walking in the Cvennes by David Robinson Comprehensive trail guide with 30 routes, including the Montagnac-Als path.
• Stone and Spirit: Architecture of Southern France by Claire Lefebvre Explains the symbolism behind the glise Saint-Jean-Baptistes design.

Local Support

Visit the Office de Tourisme dAls at 15 Rue de la Rpublique. They provide free trail maps, weather updates, and guided group hikes on weekends. Staff are knowledgeable about local legends and can point out hidden markers along the route.

Emergency Contacts

In case of injury or getting lost:

• Dial 112 European emergency number (works anywhere in France).
• Local gendarmerie: +33 4 66 21 50 50
• Mountain rescue (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Montagne): +33 4 66 21 55 15

Always inform someone of your planned route and return time before departing.

Real Examples

Example 1: Sarah, 34, Photographer from Lyon

Sarah hiked the Montagnac-Als trail in October 2023 to capture the golden light on the churchs west facade. She started at 7:30 AM, packed a lightweight mirrorless camera, a 24-70mm lens, and a small tripod. She spent 45 minutes at the church after arrival, waiting for the sun to hit the rose window. Her photo series, The Cathedral That Wasnt, won first prize in the 2024 French Landscape Photography Awards. I came for a cathedral, she says, but I found something deepera place where faith, stone, and silence speak louder than architecture.

Example 2: The Dubois Family, 2 Adults + 2 Children (Ages 8 and 11)

The Dubois family completed the hike in late May 2023. They started at 9:00 AM with packed lunches, water bottles, and a small game: Spot the 10 hidden crosses on the trail. They took breaks at every stone bench and let the children collect fallen chestnuts. The kids were fascinated by the medieval steps. They didnt realize they were walking on the same stones used by their ancestors, said mother Claire. They finished in 3 hours and 20 minutes. It wasnt about reaching a cathedral, Claire added. It was about reaching something older than us.

Example 3: Marc, 67, Retired History Professor

Marc retraced the path taken by Huguenot refugees in 1704. He carried a replica 18th-century satchel, wore period-appropriate woolen clothing, and followed the route described in a handwritten memoir found in the National Archives of France. He began at dawn and arrived at the church just as the bells rang for morning mass. He sat quietly in the back pew, listening. I didnt come to see a building, he said. I came to feel the echo of those who survived here.

Example 4: International Group of 12 Hikers from Germany, Japan, and Canada

This group hiked the trail in September 2022 as part of a cultural exchange program. They recorded audio diaries along the way, documenting their thoughts on heritage, identity, and belonging. At the church, they lit a single candle togethernot for any religion, but for all those who walked before us. Their project, Footsteps Across Borders, was later exhibited at the Muse des Civilisations de lEurope et de la Mditerrane in Marseille.

FAQs

Is there really a cathedral in Als?

No. Als has never been the seat of a bishop, so it does not have a cathedral. The largest church in the town is the glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste, often mistaken for a cathedral due to its size and grandeur.

How long does the hike take?

The most popular route from Montagnac-sur-Arre takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours, depending on pace and stops. Longer routes from Les Vans or Le Vigan can take 68 hours.

Is the trail suitable for beginners?

The Montagnac-Als route is moderate and suitable for beginners with basic fitness. The trail is well-marked and maintained. However, the final ascent includes steep stone steps. Children and seniors should proceed with caution.

Can I bring my dog?

Yes, dogs are permitted on the trail but must be kept on a leash at all times. Some sections pass near livestock, and the church grounds do not allow animals inside.

Are there restrooms on the trail?

No public restrooms exist along the trail. Use facilities in Montagnac-sur-Arre before starting. The church has restrooms open during visiting hours (9 AM6 PM).

Whats the best time of year to hike?

April to June and September to October offer the best weather, fewer crowds, and blooming landscapes. Summer can be hot; winter requires specialized gear.

Do I need to pay to enter the church?

No. The glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste is open to the public free of charge during worship hours and visiting times. Donations are accepted but not required.

Is there parking at the start?

Yes. Free parking is available at the church lot in Montagnac-sur-Arre. Avoid parking on narrow village roads.

Can I hike this route in the rain?

Its possible, but not recommended. The stone steps become extremely slippery. Wait for dry conditions, especially if youre unfamiliar with the trail.

Why do people think theres a cathedral here?

Historical confusion. In the 19th century, the church was mistakenly called la cathdrale in some local publications due to its size. Tourist maps later repeated the error. The myth persists because it sounds romanticand because the building truly feels cathedral-like.

Is the trail marked?

Yes. The route is marked with yellow arrows and occasional stone cairns. The IGN map is the most reliable guide. Do not rely solely on GPS signals, which can drop in the forested sections.

Conclusion

The journey to the so-called Als Cathedral is not about reaching a building that doesnt exist. It is about uncovering a deeper truththat the most meaningful destinations are not always the ones named on maps. The glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste stands not as a cathedral in title, but in spirit. Its stones remember the prayers of the persecuted. Its arches shelter the echoes of centuries. Its bell tolls not for hierarchy, but for resilience.

This hike is an invitation to slow down. To notice the moss on the ancient steps. To listen for the wind through the chestnut trees. To understand that heritage is not always grandit is often quiet, hidden, and carried by those who walk the path before you.

Whether you come as a historian, a hiker, a seeker, or a skeptic, you will leave changed. Not because you reached a cathedral, but because you found something more enduring: a connection to place, to time, and to the quiet courage of those who came before.

So lace up your boots. Pack your water. Leave the myth behind. And walknot to find a cathedralbut to discover what the trail, the stones, and the silence have been waiting to tell you.